http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmI4hssfrZM

For more information, visit www.prolineracing.com

Source: DJ Hobby

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When I’ve bought my first R/C truck in the early 90’s, the choice was very limited. In fact, there were only two options, 2wd buggy or 2wd truck. Just to point you in time, the next most common question was, mechanical speed controller or electronic speed controller! My choice ended on a Team Associated RC10T, the one with the narrow front wheels and all white plastic parts. The 2wd stadium truck was the heavy metal class!

Today, things have changed quite a bit. There are many more options when comes the time to buy a R/C truck. Among all the R/C trucks on the market, I felt like something was missing. Why there is no 4×4 electric stadium trucks? HPI had released the (now discontinued) RS4 MT many years ago but since then, N-O-T-H-I-N-G. Okay, maybe one or two unknown companies sell 1/10 4×4 electric stadium trucks but not the R/C top names!

I’m a hard believer that 4×4 electric stadium trucks will (must) be the next big thing in R/C. That’s why I’ve decided to not wait for any manufacturers and to go ahead and build my own one, my Team Associated RC10T 4×4!

The base:

For this project, I’ve used a Team Associated SC10 4×4 kit version. I had run the truck few times so I know the truck will be durable and will perform very well on any surfaces. The SC10 4×4 was, for me, the easiest (laziest?) path to build a 4×4 stadium truck.

The very first step was to remove the front and rear bumpers and both nerf bars. Hey! It already started looking like a stadium truck!

Body:

Finding a truck body that fits a short course chassis is not really easy. The traditional 1/10 electric stadium trucks bodies are too short to fit while most truggy bodies are a bit too long to fit properly. After an intensive brain storming session, I remembered that I have an old Pro-Line Shift body in a shelf. The body was still new and packaged because the front forwarded bodies have hit the market before I had time to paint and install my Shift body.

My major concern was the body posts and the wheels’ wells. The Shift body is made to fit a truggy but with little imagination, I’ve managed to make it fit. I first had to flip the body posts so they can go through a flat section of the body. I’ve also lowered the body posts to the maximum. Team Associated had the brilliant idea to make the posts square, so it was really easy to drill them to attach the setscrew through the shock towers. Next I had to drill the upper section for the body clip.

To adjust the body, I’ve fully compressed the front suspension and fully turned the wheels left and right to make sure the tires were not rubbing on the chassis. Once I’ve decided where drill the hole for the front body posts, the rear end was looking good as it was. The rear wheels are not fully centered in the wheels’ wells. I’ve cut a piece of lexan to add a little more clearance. The rear section of the body is slightly too wide. I’d like to have a little more than the ¼” of clearance between the inside of the wheel and the body but it is fine as it is at this moment.

Tires and wheels:

When I’ve first thought about this project, my tires choice was already done. I love the Pro-Line Calibers, this was natural for me to install them on the truck.

Now the wheels…For this project, I needed 2.2” stadium truck white dish wheels with a 12mm hex. Only two options available for me, Losi or Kyosho. I’ve finally picked up two pairs of Losi white dish wheels designed for the 22T. Originally, the center of the wheels is too thick for the SC10 4×4’s axles. I had to remove 2-3mm of plastic out of the center where the wheel nut goes before I can screw the wheels to the truck. A special note to the purists, I feel sorry to have installed Losi wheels on a Team Associated truck and vice versa LOL!

Electronics:

I simply used what I already had in the truck, LRP iX8 ESC, LRP X12L motor, Reedy 7.4v LiPo pack and DS1015 steering servo. No need to spend any extra money for the electronics, this combo is awesome!

Testing:

WOW is the best word to describe how the truck performs. On hard packed or loose dirt, grass and asphalt, the truck has all the traction of a 4×4 truck with the agility of a stadium truck. My RC10T 4×4 has incredible cornering capabilities and awesome straight acceleration. It is like driving a T4.1 on steroids, point and shoot! This is the easiest project I’ve done but it is also the one that I have the most fun with.

Conclusion:

What’s the most fun about this project is that it has only cost me few bucks to realize. When I look to the final project, I can’t stop thinking of the few bucks and effort Team Associated had to invest to have this truck into production. Body posts, body, wheels are they only parts I had to buy for the project.

Is my truck race legal? I really didn’t follow any rules concerning the wheelbase or the weight when I’ve built the truck. The only rule I’ve followed was the fun rule, you know the rule that makes R/C enthusiasts smiling.

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Even if the class is dead, my preferred truck is by far my RC10GT2. I like it because it requires more skills to be drove compared to any 4×4 vehicles. I also love my GT2 because it is 2wd and nitro. The sound, the smoke and the rooster tails are always fun! Unfortunately, the glory days of gas trucks are over. No one race them anymore, even many companies have discontinued a lot of their engines, tires, wheels and bodies designed for the gas trucks.

On the other hand, short course trucks are incredibly popular. To be honest with you, I’m not the biggest fan of those SC trucks. Yes, they look nice and realistic, they are also indestructible and they are the kings of the fender-to-fender action. Unfortunately, I really don’t like the fact that the chassis always gets full of debris, dirt and sand due to the closed wheels. This’s the main reason why I don’t like SC trucks. And I don’t even tell you about the dirt that goes in my ESC’s fan!!! OK, I know some companies sell lexan over-trays or a kind of giant nylon socks to cover the chassis but that’s really not what I want to see when I remove the body. I prefer seeing dirt, lol!

I own two short course trucks, a SC10 (very first gen.) and a SC10 4×4. I like both but I rarely run them due to the all the facts mentioned above.

The SC10GT has all that I like the most in R/C. It is 2wd, nitro, 1/10th scale and it is based on the GT2 which I know is a GREAT platform for a 2wd nitro truck. My concerns about the dirt and debris getting all over the chassis seem to be reduced due to the narrow chassis and by the absence of unprotected electronics.

Now I really don’t know what I should think about the SC10GT. Should I buy one or not?

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It would seem that the Johnny G Motorsports camp knew all too well of CJ’s potential, as it was proven by him winning his first race in his new Pro2 truck. This win makes CJ the youngest driver ever to win a Pro2 race.

Not only is CJ a natural talent behind the wheel of a 800hp Pro2, but he also knows how to lay it down at the R/C track. Chances are, when CJ isn’t racing his Monster Energy/Toyota Pro2, you can find him at his local R/C track dialing in his SC10. So, don’t be surprised to see CJ on top of the podium in the T.O.R.C. series and at the R/C tracks!

Source: www.teamassociated.com

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We frequently connect and disconnect battery packs of our vehicles. Sometimes we plug our battery packs without paying too much attention to what we do or we do it quickly while running to the track because the race starts in few seconds. Inverting the polarity can be catastrophic for any electronic speed controller and LiPo packs.

It may be really hard to clearly identify the positive pole from the negative pole on some type of LiPo packs. This is especially true for packs that use bullet type connectors.

To prevent polarity inversion, I simply put a little piece of red electric tape on the positive side of the battery pack. You can find red electric tape in any one dollar stores.

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Features:

• 2012 BullDog performance & styling for your Kyosho buggy
• More stability and improved steering
• Made with Crystal Clear Genuine GE Lexan®
• Four step to Race Ready:
  1.) Clean Body and apply included window mask
  2.) Paint then peel the over-spray film off
  3.) Sticker your body (decal sheet included)
  4.) Mount your new body onto your Buggy

For more information, visit www.prolineracing.com

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Features:

• Improved performance for 2012
• More stability and improved steering
• Made with Crystal Clear Genuine GE Lexan®
• Four step to Race Ready:
  1.) Clean Body and apply included window mask
  2.) Paint then peel the over-spray film off
  3.) Sticker your body (decal sheet included)
  4.) Mount your new body onto your Buggy

For more information, visit www.prolineracing.com

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Qualifying started Friday afternoon and ended Saturday night, with Mains on Sunday. Modified classes included 2WD Buggy, Stadium Truck, 4WD Buggy, and 4×4 Short Course. Team Associated/Reedy/LRP driver Rob Gillespie Jr. made a bold statement in qualifying, earning TQ in all three classes he entered, Modified Buggy, Modified Truck, and Modified 4WD. The hometown driver seemed to be very comfortable on the track with his Pro-Line-equipped Team Associated vehicles all weekend long. Adrian Redding went on to earn the last TQ spot in the 4×4 Short Course field with his Factory Team SC10 4×4.

Rob Gillespie Jr. got off to a slow start for the triple A-mains. A shaky start from Rob saw him finish third in A1. However, a stellar recovery with victories in A2 and A3 allowed him to take the 2WD Modified championship with his Factory Team B4.1 Worlds Edition.

1st Rob Gillespie Jr
2nd Joel Eaton
3rd Corey Peterson

In Modified Truck the story was similar. However, this time Rob Gillespie Jr. took the A1 win after some very close racing with Joel Eaton, and in A2 Rob would again go ahead and run a flawless race and earn the championship with his Factory Team T4.1

1st Rob Gillespie Jr
2nd Joel Eaton
3rd Brian Strange

4WD Modified proved to be very intense and packed some of the best racing of the weekend. TQ Rob Gillespie Jr. and local privateer racer Kobe Yonker, also running an Associated B44.1 on Pro-Line rubber, had a great race. Rob’s run at winning all three classes got a bit of a wrinkle as Kobe took the win in A1. Rob would respond with a win in A2, leaving it to a two-car showdown in A3 to decide the winner. Kobe and Rob would quickly get away from the field and race each other strongly for about 5 minutes. A bad crash from Rob with about a minute to go was enough to kill his chance of a triple crown for the weekend. Kobe Yonker looked great all weekend in 4WD and deserved the win. Rounding out the podium for Team Associated was Eric Willardson, completing the B44.1 sweep.

1st Kobe Yonker
2nd Rob Gillespie Jr
3rd Eric Willardson

In the 4WD Short Course class, Adrian Redding and his Pro-Line-equipped Factory Team SC10 4×4 made good on his TQ position. After fending off local Jason Smith, Redding gapped the field, thus securing a fourth title for Team Associated at the April Fool’s Classic.

1st Adrian Redding
2nd Jason Smith
3rd Aaron Eastman

For more information, visit www.teamassociated.com

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Features:

• Low-profile bars provide Incredible Forward Bite
• Mini-pin side tread delivers consistent side traction
• Represents latest and greatest for 1:10 Truck Racing
• Inner webbing resists tire expansion

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