My Team Associated SC10B Project – Part One


Last winter, I’ve received a Team Associated SC10B buggy. Unfortunately for me, snow and cold weather stopped me from running my SC10B. By a “warmer” day of March, I’ve decided it was time for the new buggy to have its first run.

With a fully charged LiPo pack and a “I really don’t know if this thing will be fun to drive or not” attitude, I headed outside in front of my house for a little run. In my mind, running the SC10B would be just like running any others 2wd 1/10 electric cars. As soon as I nailed the throttle and watched the buggy accelerating, cornering and jumping, I felt in love with my SC10B.

 

It’s been a while since I’ve been charmed by a R/C car. I usually know what I should expect when trying a new car. But this time, it was totally different. You know, the kind of feeling we all had when we drove our first R/C car for the very first time. This is the exact feeling I had that day. Jumping over every bumps I can find, doing donuts in the driveway until the external rear wheel looks like a pizza cutter, trying to pop wheelies by going reverse at full speed and then nailing the throttle in hope of a back flip or at least a wheelie. All this, while keep saying, let’s do it again!

Once back in the house with a totally dirty and muddy SC10B but with a large smile in my face, I’ve decided that my SC10B will not be converted into a Factory Team version but instead into a basher buggy. Why a basher buggy? Just to have fun with a car and not having to keep thinking about race setup or to worry about breaking a part. Just like to good old time, run until it breaks!

For this first part of my SC10B basher project, you’ll notice that most changes I’ve made are not visible at first glance. I’ve decided to change only few parts here and there just to make the SC10B a little more resistant to my abuses and to make the buggy a little bit faster. I’m still a racer after all!

 

Steering servo:

The stock steering servo is OK for newcomers but it feels a little slow to my liking. I replaced the stocker by a Team Associated DS1015 servo. The DS1015 has metal gears and is good for a little more than 200oz of torque with a transit time of .10s so it is an excellent choice for my SC10B.

My Team Associated SC10B Project - Part One Articles

 

Factory Team Hinge Pin Brace:

Nothing much to say about this part except that I can’t live without this little blue piece of anodized aluminum installed on my cars. The brace protects the bulkhead in case of hard impacts. Some will say it adds weight to the front end but I believe this is exaggerated or they are at a higher level.

My Team Associated SC10B Project - Part One Articles

 

Reedy 4900kv brushless motor:

The SC10B comes with a decent 3300kv brushless motor. However, I wanted more punch and speed without breaking the bank. I replaced the stock motor by another Reedy motor from the same family but with a little more RPM. The Reedy 540-SL 4900kv motor is a direct fit, no soldering required. In term of kVs, the motor is between a 7.5T and a 8.5T motor. I also replaced the stock pinion with a 19T pinion that was in my tool box.

My Team Associated SC10B Project - Part One Articles

 

Factory motor plate:

Who says more powerful motor also says more heat and this is why I’ve replaced the stock motor plate by a nice looking blue anodized factory team motor plate. The milled motor plate dissipates heat more quickly and greatly helps to keep motor operating temperature lower.

My Team Associated SC10B Project - Part One Articles

 

Factory Team CVA kit:

Like most RTR cars, the SC10B comes with dogbone style shafts that are good and will last a long time before they need maintenance or replacement. Personally, I prefer CVAs to dogbones because CVAs spin smoother and have less backlash. On the other hand, CVAs may need a little more maintenance.

 

Factory Team Front and Rear Hexs kit:

If like me, you got frustrated because a hex got stuck into a wheel or spent precious time searching for a hex in the grass or under a pit table then you need the Factory wheel Hex kit. Installation took only few minutes, don’t over tight the little screw. I’m sure my new HEXs will make me save time and frustration. Okay, you are right if you think that the stock Hexs are fine but I wanted to make my life easier. Now I know that when I’ll remove a wheel, the Hex will stay on the axle, right where it should be! You should use PN 9893 (narrow Hex) for the front and PN 9892 (wide Hex) for the rear.

My Team Associated SC10B Project - Part One Articles

 

Reedy Wolfpack 6500mAh 25C LiPo pack:

The SC10B is fun to drive and I want to have fun as long as possible with it. This is exactly why I’ve got a Reedy Wolfpack 6500mAh LiPo pack. The pack comes with a Deans Ultra Plug connector and a JST-HX balance connector. Don’t let the 25C rating fools you. I’ve ran this hard case pack in many cars and trucks and this pack has enough power to satisfy anybody and you can easily get more than 30 minutes of runtime out of this pack. I always check how many volts are left in my packs when the low voltage cut-off kicks in. Every time I checked the packs, all cells were near equal to 3.2v + or – 0.1v. This is really good for a “sport” rated pack!

My Team Associated SC10B Project - Part One Articles

 

Pro-Line Badlands SC tires and Pro-Line F11 +3 wheels:

The Pro-Line Badlands SC tires and the Pro-Line F11 +3 wheels really add a “basher” look to my SC10B. I never hesitate to choose these tires and wheels. The motocross thread pattern is not just for the look. The Badlands do really well and they add forward and side tractions to my SC10B whereever I run my buggy. They perform very well on grass, loose dirt and sand. They don’t wear out too quickly. After 4-5 packs of hard running on different surfaces, they show no major signs of wear. Closed cell foam inserts are also included. Those inserts reduce sidewall flex while being soft enough to absorb small surface imperfections for a better contact with the ground. Those features are generally for race tires, I will certainly not complaint of having them for my bashing buggy! The F11 +3 wheels have +3mm offset that makes my SC10B wider and more stable. They also look really nice.

My Team Associated SC10B Project - Part One Articles

 

This sums up the first part. Maybe you wished more bling bling parts but the SC10B is a capable basher out of the box and it doesn’t need a lot of aftermarket parts to become even better. Since I’ve spent more time driving my SC10B, I already know what my plans will be for the second part. Stay tuned to MYRCBox.com !

 

 

Items used for this part of the project:

  • Team Associated DS1015 servo (PN: 29167)
  • Team Associated FT Hinge Pin Brace (PN: 9665)
  • Reedy 540-SL 49—kV brushless motor (PN: 922)
  • Team Associated FT Milled Motor Plate (PN: 1770)
  • Team Associated FT CVA Kit (PN: 9678)
  • Team Associated 12mm Aluminum Clamping Wheel Hex Front (PN 9893)
  • Team Associated 12mm Aluminum Clamping Wheel Hex Rear (PN 9892)
  • Reedy Wolfpack 6500mAh 25C LiPo pack (PN 734)
  • Pro-Line Badlands SC M2 Tires (PN 1182-01)
  • Pro-Line F11 +3 Offset Black Wheels (PN 2739-03)

 

Sylvain Lafrance

Sylvain Lafrance

Hello, my name is Sylvain Lafrance and I am the man behind MyRCBox.com. I have bought my first hobby grade RC in the early 90s. With years, what that started as a simple hobby, quickly became a strong passion. I am so much passionate about R/C that I have created MyRCBox.com in 2006 to share my experiences with R/C products that I use for racing and bashing. Follow me !

7 thoughts on “My Team Associated SC10B Project – Part One

  • Avatar
    January 1, 2015 at 7:20 pm
    Permalink

    Nice upgrades. How has this setup performed for you? Will the factory ESC handle that 4900kv motor?
    Thx

    Reply
  • admin
    January 2, 2015 at 4:37 pm
    Permalink

    Yes, the stock ESC can handle the 4900kv motor.

    Thanks

    Reply
  • Avatar
    February 23, 2015 at 12:18 pm
    Permalink

    Impressive – I have an SC10B and looking to upgrade wheels. Was the +3mm offset wheels necessary to fit the tires on this car?

    Also Associated website says to fit SC10 that adapter is required ie Says fits ” Associated SC10 (using 12mm adapter kit and Front Inboard Hub kit #6068-00)”

    Was that also necessary for SC10B? Or can vehicle be fitted front and rear with same wheels ie same as Slash 4×4?

    thanks

    Reply
    • admin
      February 23, 2015 at 5:50 pm
      Permalink

      No need for +3mm offset wheels. You can swap front and rear wheels, no problem.

      I invite you to visit http://www.rcten.com, this is a forum dedicated to Team Associated

      Thank you

      Reply
  • Avatar
    August 29, 2017 at 10:38 am
    Permalink

    Hi Sylvain ,
    How are you, Yes the SC10B is really beautiful. I had bought a SC10 initially then when i saw the buggy i was so smitten by it that i went and converted my SC10 to SC10B completely. my gripe is that i am unable to pop any wheelies. the reason i say so is that i have buddy with whom i bash regularly and he is using a rustler vxl and i am also brushless stock on the SC10B. But the rustler pops wheelies on a NIMH battery pack..
    So how do i sort this issue of mine. also make it faster so i can catch up with the rustler…

    Reply
    • Sylvain Lafrance
      August 29, 2017 at 10:47 am
      Permalink

      Hi,

      I invite you to join RCTen.com, this is a forum dedicated to Team Associated. This is a great place to meet others Associated fans.

      Thank you

      Reply

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