Team Associated RC10GT2 RS RTR Review
Few months ago, Team Associated introduced their new RC10GT2 Factory Team gas truck. Racers from all around the world were waiting for the new gas truck with impatience. Thirteen years later the original release of the RC10GT in 1993, the A-Team redesigned the legendary best selling and winning truck.
The first time I saw the new GT2, I remembered my first RC10GT, a black tub chassis powered by an OS .12 CZ. I had a lot of fun to drive this truck. I sold the GT and get a new one, with the blue aluminum chassis and I never stopped to have a blast to drive this truck. For many years, the RC10GT has been the only RC I had. The RC10GT has been my first nitro truck and since day #1, I always owned a RC10GT.
Now Team Associated offers the famous GT2 in a RTR package. The RC10GT2 RS RTR comes fully equipped, just need to add batteries and fuel. An incredible looking body with Tebo’s paint scheme tops the truck.
All electronics components are Team Associated standard stuff that can be found in all their RTRs vehicles. The 2-channel Ace Jaguar XP2 transmitter has a plastic look reputation but offers many nice features like dual rate steering, throttle/steering trims and end point adjustments. As long as I’m concerned, this transmitter is reliable and has a good range.
The Team Associated S1903MG steering servo is metal geared with good torque and speed to keep the GT2’s front wheels pointed where you want them in any circumstance. The throttle/brake servo (Team Associated S1903) is a standard servo that have good torque and speed for the brake/throttle duties.
A throttle return spring will save your ride in case of an unexpected runaway if you forget to charge your receiver’s batteries ! The battery pack is now in an enclosed battery box and the receiver is also located in a enclosed box. No more zip ties !
Chassis, body and tires
All GT2’s vital components are attached to a 3mm 6061 blue anodized aluminum chassis. A molded composite upper deck tops the chassis. This makes a very rigid platform. The fuel tank is 82cc but a factory installed compensator reduced the capacity to the ROAR legal 75cc. An enclosed receiver box protects your electronics and another enclosed box located at the rear end protects the battery pack. The ON/OFF switch is located on the side of the truck and is easy to reach.
An awesome Tebo’s inspired paint scheme body now tops the GT2 RTR. It is offered in two colors, white or blue. The body sits low and gives a nice sleek look to the truck. Unfortunately, there is no venting holes cut from the factory.
You’ll have to make a hole in the windshield and in the driver’s window. All four tires are mounted on white dish wheels. The front tires are ribbed and are good for bashing and for racing. The rear tires are better for bashing or to get familiar with the GT2 but they are a bit hard for racing. They are not bad race tires but if you want to race, get some Pro-Line Bowties or Snake Eyes…
Suspension and steering
One of the first thing I noticed when I dropped the GT2 on my table is how smooth the suspension is. Right out of box, the GT2’s suspension seems to be tuned perfectly. Even if I compressed the front and the rear suspension many times, the suspension arms always went back to their bone level position. The blue anodized aluminum shocks are also standard AE’s stuff found on many RTR’s. They are the same as those on the previous RC10GT. Green springs are used for the rear while silver springs are used for the front shocks. This is a well known shocks/springs setup. I used them for many years. in fact, I’m not the only one to use this spring combo. Have a look to the AE’s web site in the setup sheets section and you’ll notice that it’s a common shock setup. The aluminum shocks don’t just look nice, they also offer consistent damping and will resist to any impact. According to AE, 35wt shock oil is used for the front shocks and 30wt for the rear ones. The ride height is easily adjusted by adding or removing preload clips. Upper links are used on all four corners to adjust camber.
In the steering department, the GT2 RTR shares many components with the RC10T4. The design of the GT2’s steering is very similar, not to say identical, to what we can find on the T4. Dual bellcrank with integrated servo saver is used, two Ackerman positions are available. To eliminate bump steer effect when the front suspension is compressed, the bellcranks and the caster angles are the same. All hinge pins are now captured, no more e-clips, it’s a good news.
All the drive train is new at the exception of the dogbones. The slipper clutch is identical to what we found on the T4/B4 and uses dual slipper pads for fine tuning and to protect all the drive train. The transmission is completely from a new design and is compact to lower the GT2’s CG.
Two clutch shoes (derived from the Nitro TC3) transfer the power to the 20T clutch bell. The transmission internal ratio is 4.09:1 for a final ratio of 11.043:1, this will give to the GT2 great acceleration. The rear hub carriers now use extra big 3/16″ x 1/2″ external bearings to support the axle. This will prevent wear and the bearings will last longer. To stop the GT2, a fiber disk brake is squeezed in a metal calliper. You can quickly adjust brake with a thumb screw.
I’d like to see CVD’s instead of dogbones but to keep price tag low, AE cut to the right place. I prefer to have a great truck with dogbones rather then a truck with fragile plastic and CVD’s. Anyway, it’s just me. You can buy CVD’s later, they are not expensive.
Engine and tuned pipe
The GT2 RS RTR comes equipped with the same engine and tuned pipe combo as the RC10GT RTR. The Thunder Tiger .15X engine is ABC constructed, is easy to break in, easy to tune, reliable and produces enough power to easily push the GT2 in the 35+ MPH.
It’s a perfect engine for any newcomers. A carb restrictor is factory installed to make the GT2 easier to drive and to get familiarized with the truck. If you need more top speed and power, just remove the the carb restrictor to get few more MPH.
The rotary carb will hold his settings run after run and doesn’t need frequent adjustment. I always had great success with Thunder Tiger’s engines found in the AE’s RTR’s and this one is no exception. With proper maintenance, this engine will last many gallons. Contrary to the Factory Team version, the RTR uses a side exhaust engine. A nice polished header and tuned pipe are used and produce a nice sound with good torque and top speed.
What I liked
- Raceable and competitive out of the box.
- Engine runs strong, easy to tune.
- Bunch of Factory Team parts available
- Incredible paint scheme.
- Enclosed receiver and battery boxes.
What could be improved
- No CVD’s.
- No venting holes in the body.
The RC10GT2 RTR is a great nitro stadium truck for any newcomers but don’t let the fact that it’s a RTR fools you. The RC10GT2 RS RTR can be raced and have great success out of the box. Just add rear racing tires and you’re ready for serious track action.
At first, I wanted a GT2 Factory Team with a LRP .12 engine but my budget is limited so I decided to go with a RTR version (285$US street price). I’m sure I’ll not regret my choice. Later, I can upgrade my GT2 RTR with any Factory Team parts.
This is not an easy job to redesign a truck that won ALL ROAR National gas truck championships, received a bunch of awards from magazines and won a lot of races from backyards to the major events. All folks at Team Associated did a great job redesigning the GT. Jared Tebo proved that the new GT2 is still a champion by winning the 2006 ROAR with his GT2 FT. I’m sure we will continue to say “You still can’t beat a GT….2” !
For more information, visit www.teamassociated.com