My Team Associated RC8.2e – Part One Articles

My Team Associated RC8.2e – Part One

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For 2013, I’ve decided that my main class would be electric 1/8 buggy, no nitro for me this year. It may sound like a silly decision but I’m a little bit bored of all the noise made by nitro engines and having to always ask for pit men. Not that I don’t like nitro anymore, I just needed to move to something new and knowing me, I’ll certainly buy another nitro buggy one day. To make a long story short, I’ve put all my 1/8 nitro stuff in a big box and have bought a RC8.2e kit and electronics I needed to make it runs.

My biggest challenge will be to not run my e-buggy like I’ve ran my nitro buggy. I mean, I should not expect to run my e-buggy one hour long. I think the biggest mistake made by racers and bashers is to run their 1/8th electric trucks and buggys like if they were nitro.



The kit:

As expected, assembling the RC8.2e was easy and simple. I just had to follow the instructions manual and few hours later, the kit was assembled. The whole building process went super easy and all the parts fitted well. The chassis has changed from the previous kits, the chassis is now golden anodized instead of black. The chassis looks better and scratches will be less visible. I like the new chassis. The kit comes with JConcepts body and wing. Wheels are included in the kit but you’ll have to provide your own tires. Racing cars now rarely come with tires, racers prefer to use their own tires according to their preferences.

My Team Associated RC8.2e – Part One Articles


Steering servo:

I like to keep things simple and I rarely change things that worked well for me in the past. For the steering duties, I’ve installed my trusty DS1015 servo removed from my nitro buggy. The DS1015 servo has always worked flawlessly and has enough torque and speed for the duty. In fact, I run a DS1015 servo in all my R/C cars and trucks.

My Team Associated RC8.2e – Part One Articles


Speed controller:

The ESC is a LRP iX8. I’ve used this speed controller few times in the past in different 1/8th buggies and never had issues so it was logical for me to use it again in my RC8.2e. The only modification made was a firmware upgrade. The bullet connectors make maintenance and installation a breeze. Like all others LRP speedos, it can be programmed via few LEDs and buttons. It is a little bit tricky the first time but the instructions are clear. Many functions can be programmed like voltage cut-off, reverse or not, power profiles and drag brake. The LRP iX8 also has an internal temp check function to read ESC and motor maximum internal temperature reached during the run.

My Team Associated RC8.2e – Part One Articles


Brushless motor:

Because I always been 100% satisfied with all Reedy motors I’ve owned over the past years, I’ve choose a Reedy Sonic 1512 sensored motor. I’ve picked the 1800kV version which is a good mix of speed and torque. More powerful motors are available from Reedy but 1800kV on 4S LiPo pack is a good choice for any tracks. Since my plan is to have 20 minutes of runtime, I expect this 1800kV motor will help to reach my goal. The motor is 4-pole and has integrated heat sink to lower operating temperature. The motor can also be used in sensored or sensorless mode. Gearing is crucial for any electric powered buggy, I’ve decided to use a 19T pinion and see from there.

My Team Associated RC8.2e – Part One Articles


LiPo Battery:

For the batteries, the choice was easy, I have two Reedy 5500mAh 60C 4S LiPo packs that I have for a little more than a year. Those packs are high quality and still balanced even after many abuses like dropping voltage below 3.0V. I’m still a little bit nervous with LiPo batteries. I’ve seen and heard so many bad experiences with LiPos that I wanted to play it safe, this is why I use hardcase packs from a well-known company. I may be wrong but I try to stay away from low priced LiPos from Asia.

My Team Associated RC8.2e – Part One Articles



As mentioned above, the kit comes with wheels but no tires. Pro-Line being my preferred brand for the 15+ last years, my choice ended on the new Pro-Line Bow-Tie 2.0 (X3 soft compound) tires. Most of the tracks I race on have loose dirt on top with unprepared sections so long lasting tires with good forward traction is a must. The tires come with molded closed cell insert for a perfect fit and minimal tire ballooning. Of course, tires are the most important tuning option. I have many others Pro-Line tires models to suite my needs. Bad tires make suspension tuning impossible, always find the good tires first!

My Team Associated RC8.2e – Part One Articles


Vertical caster blocks:

The vertical caster blocks is the best option to install on the RC8.2 and RC8.2e buggys. The new 16 degrees blocks lower the roll center and help to make the buggy more predictable and forgiving. To install the vertical caster blocks, you’ll have to remove material from the a-arms to prevent the block from touching the arm when the suspension is fully extended. This step only takes few minutes and is well explained in the included instructions.

My Team Associated RC8.2e – Part One Articles


Factory Team machined rear hub carriers:

Those option parts are not necessary but I wanted to add extra strength and durability to the rear end. The stock plastic hub carriers are durable but I’ve installed the aluminum rear hub carriers as a policy insurance. The blue anodizing adds to the cool factor 🙂

My Team Associated RC8.2e – Part One Articles


Servo horn:

I use an aluminum servo horn for peace of mind only.


The setup:

For now, I use the stock setup. I didn’t change anything yet. Of course, I’ll adapt the setup to my liking as soon as I can get more track time with my new buggy. The stock setup feels neutral under various conditions and is a good setup to start with.



I’ve ran my new Team Associated RC8.2e buggy few times and I can already say that I’m 100% satisfied. Just like for any others R/C cars or trucks, I’ll have to work my own setup making one change at a time. A common setup is to drill an extra camber hole in the rear shock tower and use the rear hub third hole to give extra traction to the rear end. I’ll eventually make the modification if I need more rear end traction but I want to test different setups first.

I also have ordered many others parts like shock pistons and sway bars for experimenting different setups. I’ll let you know the results of my tests in the following articles about my RC8.2e. So stay tuned to !


Items used:

  • Team Associated RC8.2e (PN: 80907)
  • Team Associated DS1015 servo (PN: 29167)
  • LRP iX8 electronic speed controller (PN: LRP80880)
  • Reedy Sonic 1512 1800kV brushless motor (PN: 988)
  • Reedy 5500mAh 60C 4S LiPo battery (PN: 626)
  • Team Associated vertical caster blocks kit (PNs: 89565 + 89566 + 89567)
  • Team Associated machined rear hub carriers (PN: 89381)
  • Pro-Line racing Bow-Tie 2.0 X3 tires (PN: 9045-003)



Sylvain Lafrance

Sylvain Lafrance

Hello, my name is Sylvain Lafrance and I am the man behind I have bought my first hobby grade RC in the early 90s. With years, what that started as a simple hobby, quickly became a strong passion. I am so much passionate about R/C that I have created in 2006 to share my experiences with R/C products that I use for racing and bashing. Follow me !

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2 thoughts on “My Team Associated RC8.2e – Part One

  1. Nice. I like the paint job. Did you just use spray cans? How’d you go about it if you don’t mind? I like how the black fades into the blue. I’m thinking about doing something similar with mine as I’m kind of tired of just doing one solid color. Thanks!

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